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and I had not realized just how seriously the locals take their four-hour lunch breaks.

Though the place reopened a mere 10 minutes before we got there, it's already so crowded we have to take a number.

La Manual Alpargatera is the quintessential Barcelona outpost: it's steeped in history (there's a photo on the wall of faithful customer Salvador Dalí, who wore his espadrilles with his summer suits) but boasts unimpeachable street cred (Jean Paul Gaultier is currently a client).

Our number finally comes up, and we are rapidly half-buried beneath stacks of ribbon-tied espadrilles, T-strapped espadrilles, platform-wedge espadrilles, and even pancake-flat espadrilles.

Exhausted—we have, after all, only arrived this morning—and struggling under the weight of shoeboxes, we taxi back to the Hotel Omm, an ultramodern, designed-to-death hotel with an undulating façade, pitch-black corridors, and a lobby full of lithe blondes with stick-straight hair and tiny skirts, who lurk around the entrance of the Moo Restaurant, The next day we are up early for the Thursday-only antiques market in the Plaça de la Seu at the base of the massive 15th-century Catedral de Barcelona, whose spires soar over the Barri Gòtic.